Showing posts with label Cure. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cure. Show all posts

How to cure Ich?

Is your fish really sick or is it injured?
Too often people mistake an injured fish for a sick fish. A sick fish is one that is suffering from some kind of infection. An injured fish is one that typically has been bitten by another fish. Signs that a cichlid is injured include things like a cloudy eye, missing scales or torn fins. True, there are some infections that can cause these things, but in my opinion, most of the time, when you see those symptoms you will find that they were produced by a fight with another cichlid.

A cloudy eye is a particularly common outcome of a fight. Why? Because when cichlids fight, they aim for the eye. The eye is the most vulnerable part of a cichlid and if one cichlid wants to send a clear message of "GET OUT OF HERE" to another one, it bites the other fish on the eye. Fortunately, cichlid eyes are amazingly resilient and a cloudy eye might heal up in a few days if given the chance (which typically means removing either the injured fish, or the attacking fish). A fish net breeder makes a wonderful penalty box for fish that needs a "time out" for a week or so.

Similarly, missing scales can grow back and fins grow back remarkably quickly when given the chance.

Treating Disease
I am not an expert on cichlid diseases. My philosophy is: do lots of water changes and avoid getting diseases, then you won't have to treat them. There are myriad additives and medicines available in fish stores and I am not qualified to recommend one over the other. Fortunately, many of the more common cichlids are very hardy and seldom get diseases, particularly Central American cichlids.

Most diseases can be traced to dirty water, rotting food or unhealthy feeder fish. The latter is a particular cause for concern because many people are under the impression that large cichlids need to be fed goldfish. This isn't true. Many large cichlids are herbivores (plant-eaters), though they will eat goldfish given the chance. The trouble with goldfish is that they often carry and trasnmit Ich. Ich is a parasite that can be found in goldfish stock tanks in even the finest aquarium shops. It doesn't seem to bother the goldfish nearly as much as it bothers everything else.

A classic scenario (this has happend to me personally on two occasions): you buy some feeder goldfish from a reputable fish store, you feed your pike cichlids and they eat ravenously. Pikes, even little ones, can easily eat 3 or 4 goldfish at a feeding. A couple of days later your pikes look a little droopy and then the next day they are coated with Ich. You quickly treat the water but often the pikes die anyway.

What does Ich look like: Ich looks like a fine dusting of sugar covering all or part of the fish. The first day it may be just a few dozen spots, the next day, there are thousands of spots. It is often most visible on the fins. Ich is not one or two little white bumps on a fish: that is likely something else. This is a picture of a rose-breast cichlid (Astatheros longimanus) with ich.

In some cases, the fish fights the infection by sloughing off lots of mucous in which case you may not see the little white dots, but rather sheets of mucous coming off the fish. Here is a picture of an orange pike cichlid, approximately 6 inches long, with an advanced case of Ich. This fish died the next day. It got Ich from eating feeder goldfish.

What is Ich?: The white sugar-grains are the cysts -- protective cases for the parasite. Medicines cannot harm the cysts. But, sooner or later the cyst opens and out pops the free-living parasite. The free-living organism is vulnerable to medicines.



How to cure Ich: The key to treating Ich is to act quickly, i.e. the minute you see it. If you wait a day or two, the game is often over. To do this, it is generally a good idea to keep a bottle of Ich medicine around the house. There are various brands of Ich medicine, and basically they all require you to treat the tank daily with a number of drops of the liquid medicine. You must treat the tank everyday for the whole period suggested on the bottle. This is often for a week. The treatment works because everyday some of the cysts are hatching, and you can kill that days parasites with the medicine. The life cycle of ich is about a week (faster if the water is warmer) so if you treat for a week, all the cysts will have hatched and the parasites killed. This is also why many people recommend increasing the water temperature.

As the days pass, your fish gets worse and worse and likely won't feed. It becomes a race to see if you can kill the Ich, before the ich kills your fish. As I said at the start, the key is to be prepared and act quickly at the first signs of Ich.


     

Swim Bladder Disorder

Name of disease: Swim Bladder Disorder.

Other names: SBD, Floating Disorder

Type of disease: Physical Deformity / Bacterial / Feeding Problems

Occurrence: Common, especially in fancy goldfish, but can affect all freshwater fish. 

Symptoms include: Fish cannot keep a normal upright position in water; it may list to one side, float upside down, swim pointing head-downwards or upwards, be unable to rise from bottom, be unable to swim down to bottom. Fish may become listless and stop eating, but many carry on eating as usual. 




Caused by: 
1.     The swim bladder is an air-filled organ which the fish uses to balance itself and swim up and down by regulating the pressure inside. If the airbladder becomes compressed, deformed or diseased the fish cannot regulate it and therefore 'loses its balance'. Fancy goldfish frequently suffer with SB problems due to their compressed body shapes; the cause may therefore be internal physical deformity. Other causes are constipation - which compresses the SB - gulping air whilst feeding at the surface or eating food with too much air inside, such as dry floating foods, Fatty Liver Disease or kidney cysts. Bacterial or internal parasitcial infections can also be involved, and egg impaction in female fish is an occasional cause.
2. Treatment: Initially, fast the fish for 2 - 3 days and then feed peas, lightly boiled/steamed, de-skinned and mushed (this is a cure for constipation). If this is not effective, increase the tank temperature to approx. 78-80F and add Epsom Salts - an eighth of a teaspoon per 5 gallons. If this is not effective, treat with a medicated food or a broad-spectrum antibiotic (suggestions are Medigold or MetroMed or Maracyn 1 and 2 in US, Myxazin in UK). If this is not effective, treat with an internal parasiticidal medication. If this is not effective, ask a vet to X-ray the fish to check if the swim bladder or surrounding organs are physically deformed or if the swim bladder is over-inflated; sometimes this can be surgically corrected.
3.    For fish which are sitting on the bottom, it helps to reduce the water level in the tank to about half to lessen the water pressure on the fish. For fish floating at the surface, reduce the filter current if the fish is being swept around helplessly and put in plants which reach to the surface to provide the fish with some areas of gentle support. If the fish's tummy or back is constantly sticking out of the surface and is exposed to the air, coat the area with a light layer of Vaseline (petroleum jelly) to avoid it drying out and becoming sore.
4.    Please note that sometimes it is not possible to cure chronic SBD. If the fish is obviously distressed and is completely unable or unwilling to eat then painless euthanasia might be the kindest thing for it. Most fish will deal quite well with mild SBD for long periods of time however; even completely upside-down fish usually cope for a while.
5.   Precautions: Salt and medications affect the cycle so monitoring water quality during treatment is essential, especially if the tank volume has been reduced to half. Hand-feeding may be necessary as SBD-afflicted fish often cannot feed for themselves. Tank-mates may harrass a sick fish; if so then remove it to a hospital tank. Even after a fish has been cured of a bout of SBD, the disorder can return at any time so always pre-soak dry foods, use sinking rather than floating foods and keep the tank temp in the high 70's. Note: if tank temp is above 76F, ensure plenty of oxygenation is supplied. 

Recent research has closely linked high nitrate levels with SBD; in many cases, 'floaty' fish were restored to normality fairly quickly when placed in nitrate-free water. It is therefore recommended to check the nitrate levels in tanks with fish suffering from SBD, and try to keep the nitrate level below 20ppm, max., at all times.



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