A homemade filter for tiny tanks

written by: Matt Lichter

This is a small zeolite filter I've used in tiny, temporary tanks. Right now I'm using it in a 2 gallon tadpole tank, stocked with a few tiny tads. I wanted some type of filtration, but didn't have the time or energy to go through the cycling process before introducing the tads. I figured I would just use zeolite, since for the short term that seemed easiest to me. Since it was such a tiny tank, I was also looking for something cheap -i.e. DIY.

1. Find a small plastic container such as a film canister, prescription container, empty fish-food container, or any other small plastic container that isn't contaminated with detergents or other harmful substances (i.e. no shampoo bottles). Rinse well with tap water. (Film canisters may contain trace heavy metals, so add some tap water conditioner in the rinse, one that says "detoxifies heavy metals".)

2. Find about 3 to 6 inches of 1/2-inch tubing. This could be from the pet store or polyethylene tubing from the hardware store. Cut a notch the bottom end (see figure), or cut it at an angle. This ensures good water flow.

3. Cut a hole slightly smaller than 1/2 inch in the lid so that the 1/2-inch tubing makes a snug fit. Put the lid on the container and push the 1/2-inch tube all the way down to the bottom of the container. With a heated nail or a drill, make a bunch of small holes in the remaining area of the lid.

4. With a heated screwdriver or a drill, make a hole in the side of the 1/2-inch tubing for the airline tubing to fit. Again, the hole should be slightly undersized for a tight fit. It would probably help to make the hole at an angle, since the airline will be coming in at an angle. Also, when making the hole, it is good to leave yourself some room (1/2 inch) between the top of the lid and the bottom of the hole. This will make the canister easier to fill with media later on.

5. Press the airline tubing into the new hole, and push it about halfway down into the canister. You don't want air bubbles to find themselves going back through the media the wrong way.

6. Now, unsnap the lid and swivel it out of the way, as you keep the 1/2-inch tubing all the way down to the bottom. Fill the rest of the container with zeolite or the media of your choice. You should be able to get a few tablespoons of media into a film canister. Carefully snap the lid back on and hook the airline tubing to a small air pump.

The whole thing costs practically nothing beyond the media and the air pump. If you have a few tanks you probably already have all the materials laying around.

Basics of aquarium plants

Aquatic plants perform a number of functions in the aquarium. They oxygenate the water and contribute to maintaining a balanced water chemistry. They serve as an additional site for colonisation by bacteria and may even help to seed new tanks with the beneficial bacteria required to break down waste products. However, plants are probably more often added because they enhance the look of the tank, while providing a refuge for fish. Well planted aquariums are a stunning site.

To grow plants successfully in the aquarium, you need to balance the amount of lighting with nutrient levels. Standard aquarium hoods often have only a single tube and this may not be adequate for most plants. If the light is increased, however, you may need to use a fertilizer or nutrient supplement and possibly CO2 addition to keep plant growth vigorous and avoid excessive algae.

 

It is unnecessary to leave lighting on for more than 12 hours a day - longer periods are likely to favour algal growth, rather than promote plant growth. Consider adding algae eating fish if appropriate to the setup, Otocinclus species are particularly suited to smaller planted tanks, as they will not damage leaves.

When planting a new tank, it is advisable to add all of the plants at the start, so that they become established before algae has a chance to utilise any excess light and nutrients. Include some quick growing plants in the initial stages. Floating plants are useful if you wish to shade part of the aquarium which will be left unplanted (or contain low-light plants), catfish and some others will appreciate an area away from the glare of the main lights.

Outlined below are a few basic plant care tips.

• Before planting, remove any decaying or yellowed leaves. Decaying leaves are a drain on the plants nutrient supply.
• Remove any dying roots, as these will rot in the substrate. These will appear limp and brown, healthy roots are normally pale and more rigid.
• For stem plants, remove the bottom few leaves. These will receive little light and a new cutting will not have an adequate root system to support a full complement of leaves.
• Tubers should be planted at an angle in the substrate, with the growing tip exposed.
• Some plants require attachment to rocks or bogwood to thrive, rather than planting in the substrate, these include Java Fern and Java Moss.
• Cuttings can be made from stem plants once they reach the surface. These can be replanted in the substrate and will soon grow a new root system.
• Many plants reproduce using runners. The new plants can be separated from the parent plant once they have established themselves, when they reach about one-third of the size of the original plant.