Brichardi Cichlid - Profile

Scientific Name(s)	: Neolamprologus Brichardi
Common Name(s)	: Fairy Cichlid Brichardi, Lyretail Cichlid
Family	: Cichlidae
Species Type:	: African Cichlids, Lake Tanganyika
Maximum Size	: 8 inches
Natural Habitat	: Lake Tanganyika
Minimum Tank Size	: 20 gallons
Tank Region	: All over
Temperature Range	: 72°F – 77°F
pH Range	: 8.0 – 9.0
Hardness	: 9° - 19°
Temperament	: Peaceful to Aggressive depending upon tank mates

Description:

Neolamprologus brichardi is an enchantingly beautiful cichlid endemic to the northern parts of Lake Tanganyika. It is named Fairy Cichlid in English due to its otherworldly appearance, and Scandinavian aquarists call it “Prinsessan av Burundi” (the Princess of Burundi).

When keeping Neolamprologus brichardi, it is important to be really careful and focused during netting, because these fishes truly hate being netted and will do anything to avoid it. They are highly skilled when it comes to avoiding capture and once they have been startled, they will squeeze themselves into the smallest possible space in the aquarium and stay there until they feel safe again. They can also try to evade you by jumping out of the aquarium and may injure them selves in the process. 

Aquarium Setup:

The Brichardi Cichlid likes an aquarium with a lot of decorations, especially those that provide cave like hiding places, where each fish can stake out a territory. In the wilds of Lake Tanganyika the Brichardi inhabits small caves near the shoreline along a rocky bottom. You should also provide plenty of open water space for swimming as they like to move around a lot. Keep this in mind when you arrange your aquarium.

Brichardi Cichlids have a tendency to dig so be sure that larger rocks are well anchored or they may overturn them and harm themselves. Any plants should also be firmly anchored or this fish will uproot them.

Diet:
The Brichardi Cichlid will feed on nearly all types of flakes or frozen foods. Cichlid pellets are best when combined with occasional live brine shrimp, but you may use other flake foods that are high in nutritional value.

Housing Brichardi:

The easiest way of getting Neolamprologus brichardi to breed in captivity is to house a large group of juveniles together and let them grow up together. As they reach sexual maturity, they will start forming their own pairs.

Neolamprologus brichardi can reach a length of 8.5 cm, but as long as they are juveniles you can house over 20 specimens in an 80 liter aquarium. Eventually, the ones who become dominant males will divide the aquarium into different territories, while the submissive males will do their best to stay out of trouble. The females will join the dominant males and form breeding groups. As long as the submissive males do not challenge the dominant ones, the aquarium will be quite a peaceful place. If several couples start breeding in the same aquarium, that is not a problem, because each group will defend their own territory without being exceptionally violent towards other fish. Sometime fry can even be seen moving from their own parent group to another parent group. If you manage to get one group of fish to spawn, it will often trigger spawning in all the other groups as well.

Neolamprologus brichardi will appreciate a well decorated aquarium where it is easy to claim small territories. Add coal mounds or similar to form great spawning sites. Keep the pH-value in the 8.0-9.0 range, the water hardiness between dH 9 and 19 and the water temperature from 22 to 25 degrees C. Feed them plenty of nutritious food, e.g. high-quality cichlid pellets combined with live brine shrimp.

Tank Mates/Community:

The Brichardi Cichlid is very peaceful when it is among other Brichardis, however, they can become very aggressive when mixed with other fish, especially other Lake Tanganyika Cichlids. If you have a large aquarium (35 gallons or bigger) a single Brichardi will often coexist peacefully with other non-aggressive fish. If you have a pair of Brichardis they will terrorize any other fish in the tank.

Fish owners often make the mistake of assuming that since the small Brichardis they just bought seem to be getting along that things will be OK. Unfortunately, when the fish mature problems often begin with aggressiveness and fighting.

Color:
The Brichardi Cichlid is a beautiful fish and is very different in appearance from most other African Cichlids. It is a tan color with small yellow markings near the base of the tail fin. The fins are trimmed with a bluish white edge. A dark colored bar runs horizontally from the eye to gill covering, just above the bar is a brightly colored gold spot. There is, most often, a striking pattern of blues below its eyes extending from the lip to the gill covering.

Breeding:
The Brichardi is one of the easiest of the Lake Tanganyika cichlids to breed. Pairs are monogamous, remaining together for life. The Brichardi is a cave spawner so if you intend to breed them be sure they have appropriate cave-like areas in which to lay their eggs.

A pair of Brichardis can produce about 100 fry. They are good parents and will care for the fry for several months. The fry can be fed brine shrimp and crushed flakes.

It is interesting to note that the Brichardi is the only known African fish with which an entire community takes part in the rearing of the young. In their “collective nursery” system adults and young fry will cooperate to care for the new fry.

 

Spawning:

During spawning, the couple will force themselves into a crevice and spawn inside. It is therefore hard to witness the actual spawning, but you can get a clue from how the rest of their group reacts. If a group suddenly becomes much more territorial than before, a couple within the group has most likely spawned in the aquarium. Do not loose heart if the first batch of eggs becomes eaten. The second batch will normally be raised okay and the first batch of egg will often serve to make the other fish groups interested in spawning.   

Fry rearing:

Newly hatched fry is really small but can be fed microworms and powdered flake food as soon as they become free swimming. Within the group, all he females can act as if they are caring for the fry, not only the mother. Older fry can also stay around to help out (or appear to help out) with new batches, even though this can make the spawning couple somewhat agitated.

Breeding Bettas

PREPARATION

Prepare the food cultures: 

Getting  Bettas to spawn is the easy part: raising the fry is more difficult.  Consequently, it is best to begin any breeding program by developing a rich culture of micro-organisms such as "infusoria" and rotifers and a culture of micro-worms and brine shrimp.

"Infusoria" is a term that is used to refer to micro-organisms such as Euglena and Paramecium that grow rapidly when pond water is infused with rotting leaves, such as lettuce or hay straw.  Fill a small container with pond water or water siphoned from the bottom of an established aquarium and add a handful of soft lettuce leaves and/or hay straw to it and let it stand for several days.  Adding green water from a pond or tank will help the culture develop.  As the leaves rot, micro-organisms develop in the water in large numbers, feeding on the decomposing leaves.  These can be seen with a low powered microscope- a micro-zoo in a tub!

Use a turkey-baster or large eye-dropper to remove the culture to feed to the tiny Betta fry in the first days that they are seen free swimming.

Micro-worms are tiny worms that are easily cultured in a mix of "Easy Oats" or rolled oats mixed with boiled water to a thick, creamy consistency to which a little bakers yeast is added for fermentation. 

Prepare the fish for spawning by feeding them well with live foods such as brine shrimp, black worms, blood worms and mosquito larvae.  Frozen foods are acceptable for this, too. 

When ready to breed, females will be plump and show an egg spot at the vent and males will built a bubble nest at the water surface.  The nests may be any size but are usually 5-6 cms across, with the bubbles piled high.  Water temperature increases may trigger nest building and water temperature is an important factor, males that show no interest in breeding a water temperature 25^oC will do so when the temperature rises to 27-28^oC.

Adjust the water temperature to the optimum range for breeding,  28^oC (82^oF), and ensure that the cover plate is in place so that a humid, warm air space exist above the water surface.  Betta breeding is also possible within the range 26^oC - 30^oC (80-86^oF) and some breeders have good results at temperatures around 84^oF.

Place the male Betta in a wide topped container that is at least 15 cms deep and fitted with a close fitting cover.  The water should be well aged and clean and provided with floating plants (Duckweed is suitable) or half of a polystyrene cup cut length wise.  If he is ready to breed he will build a bubble nest at the top of the water among the plants or beneath the cup.  When he has finished building his nest he will swim just below it and guard it fiercely.

Prepare the fish

Feed both the males and females a balanced diet, including live-foods, to condition then prior to mating.  Select males that have begun to build their bubble nests (or wait until the selected specimen does so). 

Getting Bettas to spawn presents few problems.  Select a "ripe" female Betta, one showing a swollen belly full of eggs, and displaying the brooding stripes that female Bettas develop when ready to breed.  If she is ready to lay eggs, a small white spot may be seen at her vent (ovipositor).  Place her in with the male.

The male Betta will begin to display and to chase the female and tend to his bubble nest with more intensity.  Fights may occur if neither fish is ready to spawn.  The whole process can appear very violent.

Sometimes a female will release her eggs prematurely if the male excites her.   If this happens then the eggs will not be fertilized so you will have to begin over again with a new female- or wait until the first one is ready again.

SPAWNING

The spawning may take several hours.

Eventually the female will position herself below the nest and the male will wrap himself around her in thespawning embrace.

As eggs are released, the male will catch them in his mouth and place them into the bubble nest.  The female will often appear as though 'frozen' in the embrace and hang limp in the water.  They recover quickly and soon are ready to repeat the embrace.

After spawning is complete, remove the female to a clean recovery tank.  Salt (sodium chloride) added to the water at the rate of two teaspoons per gallon will help prevent any fungal growth on any torn fins or scales. 'Melafix' is also suitable for treating Bettas with torn fins and scales.

The male will guard the eggs and replace any eggs that fall from it and return them to the nest in a new bubble.                                                          

The spawning embrace, below the bubble nest.

HATCHING

The fertilized eggs will hatch in about 24 to 48 hours.  The fry are very tiny and hang tail-down from the bubbles and are attended by the male, who catches any that fall and returns them to the nest inside a new bubble.  Sometimes a male will eat the eggs and the fry and he is best removed and the fry allowed to hatch unattended.  Some will survive. During this stage the fry live on their egg sacks and do not require feeding.   This is a good time to check the infusoria culture.

In about 3 days from hatching, some of the fry will turn themselves horizontally within the nest and begin to be free swimming.  The male is best removed at this time, as his constant efforts to catch the youngsters and return them to the nest may end up with him eating them.

Begin feeding the active, free swimming fry at day 3 or 4, as they begin to forage about the tank eating micro-organisms. Usually we have hundreds hatch but only a small percentage of the fry can take newly hatched brine shrimp nauplii as their first food.  This means that only those that are best able to feed will survive.  This is perhaps a good thing for hobbyists, as housing large numbers of maturing males may be a problem.  Feeding the fry rotifers, "infusoria", small copepods and micro-worms will enable a high survival rate.

RAISING THE TINY FRY is the hard part!  Unless live food is given, most Betta fry starve to death when their eggs sacks are depleted.

Fry at day 3.

FEEDING is critical: 

The new fry are VERY tiny and their first foods are micro-organisms that we can't see without a microscope. 

Feed infusoria and newly hatched brine shrimp from the start of the free swimming stage. 

Frequent feeding is necessary in small amounts and up to ten times a day. 

The fry will be seen picking at the surface of plants, the glass and the filter sponge (if one is present), taking the micro-organisms on those surfaces. 

I have had success with Paragon's "Liqui-Fresh #1" as a first feeding substitute for live foods. I use it in conjunction with infusoria and pre-mix it in a small container and add it to the tank with an eye-dropper every two hours.  Similar prepared foods for baby fish may be tried.

Be careful not to over feed and sour the water.  Removing uneaten food is very difficult at this stage, as the tiny fry may be siphoned out as well.  Using a "turkey baster" is helpful. The young fry may be raised in small tanks fitted with a mature sponge filter.  Run the air flow at a gentle rate. The fry will pick at a mature filter sponge, to eat the micro-organisms on its surface.  

It takes about three months for baby Bettas to begin to show their colours, body patterns and sex.  Males may begin to fight at this stage and may need separating.  I say, "may need separating" as I find that some Bettas do not fight among brothers of the same brood that are kept together since hatching- you may be so lucky!

Usually the males develop faster than the females,  which, in nature, probably prevents in-breeding.

 Good luck with breeding your favourite strain of Bettas. 

Types of Betta

The Betta has been bred in many different types, having a variety of different colours, colour patterns and tail forms. The selective breeding began in S.E. Asia long ago, with breeding of the Plakat Morh, the true Fighting Fish of Thailand, Plakat Khmer, the Cambodian colour form, and the Plakat Cheen, the long-finned, ornamental variety. Modern breeding programmes have greatly extended the range of colours, fin types and patterns so that many combinations exist. These all derive from the Plakat Khmer and Plakat Cheen. The main forms and colour types are listed here, with a brief description of their genetics and breeding. At our hatchery, we are developing the Royal Blue/green complex, Crown Tails and the Double-tailed varieties, in an attempt to breed improved Double-tailed Turquoise and Royal Blue Bettas. Delta Tails and Half Moons will be a future breeding line. We also keep Red, Yellow and Cambodian Bettas.

The pictures on this page are not necessarily of my fish but are images gathered from many places over time.  I thank all those Betta growers and photographers whose pictures I have used for their assistance and co-operation.  This is a free, educational page and all images are used for study purposes.

Betta Anatomy

External Anatomy

Internal Anatomy

 

Bettas have seven fins, namely, two pairs of paired fins- the pectoral fins and the ventral fins, and three unpaired fins- the dorsal fin, the anal fin and the caudal (or tail) fin.

The pectoral fins are small and are usually uncoloured.  They can be seen actively beating near the gill covers.

The caudal fin and the pectorals do most of the propulsion and the other fins provide stability.

Bettas can make their fins stand erect in display attitudes that show aggression and sexual attraction.

Comparing the male Betta, above,  with the female at below, will show the main differences in fin size and shape.  It is the males that have the large fins.Note that the female has smaller fins, especially in the anal and ventral finnage.  Regardless of the type of Betta splendens (see TYPES) all females have smaller fins than the males, even in long finned forms.

Bettas are anabantids (of the Family Anabantidae), being fishs with an auxiliary breathing apparatus known as the labyrinth organ, that enables them to respire by breathing directly from the surface of the water. Taking air into their mouths and passing it over the labyrinth organ and out of their gill slits supplements the more usual breathing by way of gills.  Other fishes with labyrinth organs include the other Betta species and gouramies.

The origin of the scientific name, Anabantidae, derives from the Greek verb, anabaino, meaning "to ascend" or "to go up", referring to the habit of such fishes as they swimming to the surface to respire.

Having two methods of breathing increases the survival opportunities for Bettas.  It is this organ that enables us to keep Bettas in small containers. The labyrinth organ enables Bettas to live in oxygen depleted waters, under conditions that would be lethal to most other fishes.  The warm waters in which Bettas live are often poor in available oxygen.

The labyrinth organ is a wonderful adaptation for survival that enables Bettas to extend their habitats into rice paddies and ditches.

Crayfish Anatomy

Internal anatomy of a crayfish: edible freshwater crustacean, with pincers on the two forelegs.
Encephalon: site of the mental functions of a crayfish.
Stomach: part of the digestive tract between the esophagus and the intestine.
Heart: blood-pumping organ of the crayfish.
Gonad: sex gland of a crayfish.
Extensor muscles: muscle that extends the tail of the crayfish.
Anus: outlet of the digestive tract.
Flexor muscle: muscle that bends the tail of the crayfish.
Digestive gland: glandular organ that produces digestive enzymes.
Ganglion of ventral nerve cord: budge related to a collection of nerves of the abdomen of a crayfish.
Ventral nerve cord: collection of nerves in the abdomen of a crayfish.
Maxilliped: pair of appendages of a crayfish used for holding prey.
Esophagus: part of the digestive tract between the mouth and the stomach.
Mandible: lower jaw.
Mouth: entrance to the digestive tract.
Green gland: antennary gland.
Eye: sight organ of a crayfish.

A homemade filter for tiny tanks

written by: Matt Lichter

This is a small zeolite filter I've used in tiny, temporary tanks. Right now I'm using it in a 2 gallon tadpole tank, stocked with a few tiny tads. I wanted some type of filtration, but didn't have the time or energy to go through the cycling process before introducing the tads. I figured I would just use zeolite, since for the short term that seemed easiest to me. Since it was such a tiny tank, I was also looking for something cheap -i.e. DIY.

1. Find a small plastic container such as a film canister, prescription container, empty fish-food container, or any other small plastic container that isn't contaminated with detergents or other harmful substances (i.e. no shampoo bottles). Rinse well with tap water. (Film canisters may contain trace heavy metals, so add some tap water conditioner in the rinse, one that says "detoxifies heavy metals".)

2. Find about 3 to 6 inches of 1/2-inch tubing. This could be from the pet store or polyethylene tubing from the hardware store. Cut a notch the bottom end (see figure), or cut it at an angle. This ensures good water flow.

3. Cut a hole slightly smaller than 1/2 inch in the lid so that the 1/2-inch tubing makes a snug fit. Put the lid on the container and push the 1/2-inch tube all the way down to the bottom of the container. With a heated nail or a drill, make a bunch of small holes in the remaining area of the lid.

4. With a heated screwdriver or a drill, make a hole in the side of the 1/2-inch tubing for the airline tubing to fit. Again, the hole should be slightly undersized for a tight fit. It would probably help to make the hole at an angle, since the airline will be coming in at an angle. Also, when making the hole, it is good to leave yourself some room (1/2 inch) between the top of the lid and the bottom of the hole. This will make the canister easier to fill with media later on.

5. Press the airline tubing into the new hole, and push it about halfway down into the canister. You don't want air bubbles to find themselves going back through the media the wrong way.

6. Now, unsnap the lid and swivel it out of the way, as you keep the 1/2-inch tubing all the way down to the bottom. Fill the rest of the container with zeolite or the media of your choice. You should be able to get a few tablespoons of media into a film canister. Carefully snap the lid back on and hook the airline tubing to a small air pump.

The whole thing costs practically nothing beyond the media and the air pump. If you have a few tanks you probably already have all the materials laying around.

Food for tropical fishes

LIVE FOODS

1.Crustaceans

Brine Shrimp (Artemia salina)

Brine shrimp is one of the most popular live foods in the hobby. Most brine shrimp available come from San Francisco or the Great Salt Lake. Brine shrimp are available in live, frozen, and freeze-died forms. Brine shrimp eggs are widely available for home cultivation. The young nauplii are excellent food for fry. Adult brine shrimp are suitable for small to large fish. Brine shrimp provide good roughage with their exoskeletons and do not harbor disease to affect freshwater species.

Water Fleas (Daphnia)

Daphnia are an excellent supplementary food that can be fed every 7-10 days to provide roughage. Daphnia are available in frozen, freeze-dried, and occasionally, live forms.

Cyclops

Cyclops are a good food for large fry and small fish. These crustaceans will attack small fry. Cyclops are available in frozen and live forms.

River Shrimps (Gammarus)

These shrimps are a natural food for many large fish, especially cichlids. In order to be kept alive, keep these shrimp in cool water with strong aeration.

2.Worms

Black Worms

Blackworms are segmented worms typically raised on fish farms (hence significantly cleaner than Tubifex worms).

Tubifex Worms

Tubifex inhabit muddy, polluted streams and cannot be recommended as fish food because they harbor parasites and toxins, and have a low beneficial nutrient content. Always soak the worms in water for several days before feeding. Feed sparingly as uneaten Tubifex worms will burrow in the gravel and may die. Tubifex worms are only good to feed temporarily, if fish refuse all other foods.

White Worms (Enchytraea)

White worms are found in decomposing materials including compost piles and seaweed piles. White worms are fatty and should only be fed on an occasionally basis. White worms are commonly used to feed older fry. These worms can be cultured at home.

Earthworms
Earthworms can be found in most gardens. Before feeding them, clean off all dirt and slime. Earthworms are a good food for large, carnivorous fish.

3.Insect Larvae

Bloodworms (Chironomus)

A favorite fish food that can be purchased frozen, freeze-dried, or live. In nature blood worms are known for constructing cocoons of plant debris and mud. Chironomus mosquitoes do not bite.

Black Mosquito Larvae

Black Mosquito larvae are an excellent food, full of vitamins that appear to help trigger spawning in some species. Mosquito larvae are easily caught in ponds and can be raised in standing containers of water. Beware that black mosquito sting.

White Mosquito Larvae, Glassworms

Glassworms are found in ponds. These insect larvae develop into gnats. Glassworms are available in live and frozen forms.

Meal Worms

Meal worms are the larvae in beetles and are available in many pet shops. Meal worms can be fed to large fish. These larva should not be considered a regular food, but an occasional supplement.

4.Insects

Fruit Flies (Drosophila)

Use only short-winged, non-flying fruit flies which are less likely to escape. Drosophila are a natural food for many species and can be used to help stimulate spawning. Drosophila cultures are available mail ordered from breeders. In order to culture Drosophila, place a feeding mush in a jar with two or three dozen fruit flies. The mush can be prepared by blending a banana, one can of plums, corn or oat flakes, one peach or orange, and a cup of vinegar. The mush should be sprinkled with baker's yeast.

Flies, Crickets, Beetles, Back swimmers

House flies can be captured, disabled, and fed to medium to large, carnivorous fish. Crickets can be captured or purchased at a pet store. Beetles and back swimmers can also be captured.

5.Mollusks

Snails
Small water snails, common stowaways on water plants, can be fed to several species including Pufferfish.

6.Vertebrates 

Feeder Fish, Frogs, Tadpoles

Goldfish and guppies are widely used as feeder fish for large, carnivorous species. Feeder fish can carry disease or parasites. Many aquariasts medicate the water which houses the feeder fish to reduce the risk of the spread of disease into the main tank. Frogs and tadpoles are used on occasion as foods for large fish. Usually these creatures are captured in local ponds and streams.

FROZEN FOODS

There are many frozen foods available for freshwater fish. Among these include: all of the live foods mentioned previously, krill, plankton, squid, vegetable-based foods, and other meat-based products. There are frozen foods containing a mixture of ingredients formulated specially for certain fish types. Some aquariasts make homemade frozen foods with meats, live foods, and vegetables.

FREEZE-DRIED FOODS

Many varieties of freeze-dried foods are available. Freeze-dried foods have an advantage because they retain all the nutrients of live food but with out the hassle of keeping live foods. However do not feed exclusively freeze-dried foods as, like live foods, they lack vitamins that can be provided by a good flake food.

FLAKE, TABLET, & PELLETED FOODS

Flake, tablet, and pelleted foods are the most widely used food for aquarium fish for good reasons: they are generally inexpensive, easy to use, and well-balanced. These foods are available in many forms including specially formulated mixtures for certain fish or conditions.  Flakes can be fed one to four times a day, but only in small amounts which can be consumed by the fish in two minutes or less (Algae pellets are an exception). Flakes absorb water within 10 seconds of being added to the water. With fish that feed on the flakes before they absorb water, the flakes should be soaked before adding them to the tank.

MICRO FOODS

Micro foods are easier to collect or culture than they are to buy. Micro foods are usually used for raising small fry.

1.Green Water (Suspended Algae)

Green water is easily cultured. Simply take a jar of aquarium or aged tap water and leave it in a sunny spot. Add some algae from the aquarium and add a few drops of plant fertilizer. The suspended algae should develop within a few days. Dispense the 'green water' using an eye dropper.

2.Infusoria and Rotifers

Infusoria is the name given to certain single-celled microorganisms. Infusoria are often present in the aquarium. Infusoria can be cultured by adding crushed banana or lettuce to a jar filled with aquarium water. Within a few days, the presence of infusoria can be determined by the cloudy water. Feed the infusoria using an eyedropper. Rotifer eggs can often be purchased at pet shops.

3.Other Protists

Other protists can be collected, with care, from ponds and other sources of clean water. Pass the water through fine mesh in order to collect the small organisms. Beware that some microorganisms may harm fry.

4.Egg Yolk

Egg yolk can be prepared for feeding by shaking yolk in a jar until the water is cloudy. Then dispense the yolk using an eyedropper.

VACATION FEEDING

Do not add any new plants or fish to the tank later than one month before the vacation. Prior to taking a vacation, the tank should be given a thorough water change and no new fish or plants should be added. If the aquariast is to be gone less than a week, the fish need not be fed unless young fish or fry are kept. If the aquariast is gone for longer than a week or does not feel comfortable not feeding their fish, then an automatic feeder can be purchased. But a well-known brand that will not likely breakdown during the vacation. Be sure to test the feeder for a least a week prior to vacationing and remember not to allow the feeder distribute too much food. An alternative is to have a friend or neighbor feed the fish and look after the tank. Leave previously measured daily feeding portions and a check list of things (Water temperature, filters, dead fish, etc.) for the friend to look after. A less popular alternative is to leave the fish at a reliable aquarium store with feeding instructions. Usually the fee for this service is not too high.

FEEDING HABITATS

Fish are usually divided into four eating groups: carnivores, herbivores, omnivores, and limnivores.

1.Carnivores are meat-eating fish which are usually predatory by nature. In the wild, these species feed on fish, insects, insect larvae, and crustaceans. Large carnivores may only eat a few times a week. Carnivores have a large stomach and a short digestive tract. In the aquarium, depending on the size of the carnivore, the fish can be fed live foods and flakes.

2.Herbivores are vegetable, plant, fruit, and algae feeders by nature. Herbivores are frequent feeders and have a long digestive system. In the aquarium, herbivores can be fed flakes, vegetables, and plant matter.

3.Omnivores feed on a variety of foods in nature. In the aquarium, omnivores can be given live, flake, and vegetable foods.

4.Limnivores, also known as mud-eaters, feed on algae and detritus (and the microorganisms that inhabit them), and rasp on wood. Limnivores are constantly feeding and have a small stomach with a long digestive tract. In aquaria, limnivores can be fed pellets and algae.

FOOD COMPOSITION

Depending on the fish's feeding habits (carnivore, omnivore, herbivore, limnivore), the percentage of fat, fiber, and protein varies.

	Carnivore	Omnivore	Herbivore	Limnivore
Fat	3-6%	2-5%	1-3%	2-4%
Fiber	2-4%	3-8%	2-6%	5-10%
Protein	45-70%	30-40%	30-40%	15-30%
Moisture	6-10%	6-10%	6-10%	6-10%

VITAMINS 
Vitamin A

effect: cell growth

symptoms of deficiency: poor growth, deformation of vertebral column and fins

source: liver, spinach, carrots

Vitamin B1 (thiamin)

effect: breakdown of carbohydrates, promotes growth and fertility

symptoms of deficiency: frightened behavior, poor growth, decline in appetite.

source: paprika, peas, carrots, spinach

Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)

effect: control of enzymes and proteins

symptoms of deficiency: cloudy eyes, poor growth, loss of appetite

source: spinach, peas, paprika, carrots

Vitamin B3 (Nicotin acid)

effect: food breakdown of proteins

symptoms of deficiency: weakness, aimless movements, tumors

source: peas, liver, spinach, paprika

Vitamin B5 (Pantothene acid)

effect: hormone production, metabolism

symptoms of deficiency: weakness, sticking gill membranes

source: liver, paprika

Vitamin B6 (Pyridomin) and B12 (Cyanocobalamin)

effect: enzymes, protein metabolism

symptoms of deficiency: increased panting, loss of appetite, timidness, poor growth

source: liver, paprika

Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid)

effect: bone and tooth development, healing, digestion

symptoms of deficiency: altered skin, liver, and muscle tissue

source: paprika, peas, spinach

Vitamin D3

effect: bone development

symptoms of deficiency: degeneration of bone

source: fish liver, fish meal

Vitamin E

effect: development of sex organs, fertility

symptoms of deficiency: infertility

source: eggs, cereal

Vitamin K

effect: blood formation, blood clotting

symptoms of deficiency: death follow injuries (abrasions)

source: lettuce, peas, spinach

Vitamin M (folic acid)

effect: blood formation, metabolism

symptoms of deficiency: dark skin pigmentation

source:

Choline

effect: growth, fat production, coloration

symptoms of deficiency: enlarged kidney and liver

source: paprika