Guppy - Profile

 

Scientific Name(s)	: Poecilia reticulata
Common Name(s)	: Guppy, Fancy Guppy
Family	: Poeciliidae
Species Type	: Livebearers
Maximum Size	:  2.5 inches
Life Span	: 3 years
Natural Habitat	: Central American swamps and lakes
Minimum Tank Size	: 10 gallons
Tank Region	: All over but prefers top.
Temperature Range	: 64°F - 82°F
pH Range	: 7 – 8
Hardness	: 10° - 20°

Possible Tank Mates: Community fish

Description: Guppies are one of the most common tropical fishes in the hobby because of their striking color variations and peaceful nature. Guppies are easily bred and vary widely in appearance. Because of this, many aquarists have devoted their time to breeding differing strains of guppies.

Breeding Information: Prolific livebearers - mothers should be seperated into a fry tank with a lot of cover once the belly gets square and the eggspot gets dark as she and other guppies will eat fry.

Sexing Information: Sex can be easily determined by the male's modified anal fin (gonopodium).The male is more colourful than the female and has a longer and ornate tail fin. Females grow larger and have a more rounded body

 

Diet: Omnivorous fish that does well with flake food.

Temperament: Peaceful

Common Diseases: Fin Rot

Guppy Facts: The guppy is named after the Rev. J.L. Guppy of Trinidad, an early collector of the species from the late 1800's. Guppies (Poecilia reticulata) are placed in the family as mollies and mosquitofish.

 

Natural habitat: The wild, original guppy is native to Central America, as well as Trinidad and northern South America.  Today, many guppies are found in Asia, especially Singapore, where many fancy strains are bred in large fish farms, and shipped to pet stores all over the world.

The Fancy Guppy are the result of specialized breeding techniques and they only slightly resemble the small, wild guppy, often seen in pet stores labeled "feeder fish".   Credit is due these active little fish, however, which are a joy for many who keep them.

A man name Dr. Ab in the mid-sixties observed that ordinary wild guppies, when given top quality food, water, and care, gained much size. An American named Paul Hahnel used controlled breeding and selection to bring about the first true fancy-tailed guppy, similar to the veil tail of today. Other breeders worked on the colour and developed more tail shapes such as the sword tails, round tails, and spear tails. Guppy fancier groups were established, and these organizations developed a set of guppy standards by which to judge them in guppy shows.

As a result, emphasis was placed on large finnage, intense and uniform colour, and keeping each strain (colour) breeding true and as similar as possible. There are hundreds of fancy strains, and the genetic possibilities in the guppy seem endless as more strains are constantly being developed.

If the different strains are allowed to mix continually, the outcome would resemble the original wild guppy. While some genes are erased or replaced through breeding, the resulting guppy would loose much colour and size. 

Notes:

• The guppy is a live bearer, with an average gestation period of 28 days.
• The female guppy has drops of between 2-200 fry, normally about 30 to 60.
• The female matures at about 3 months, the males earlier, at around 6 weeks.  This depends on genetics and environment.
• The life span for a well cared-for guppy is 1.5 to 3 years on average.

 

Temperature

72°F to 80°F is the optimum for guppies, but they can survive temperatures as low as 60°F and as high as 90°F. The higher the temperature in which a guppy lives, the shorter it's life span will be. For the first part of their lives, guppies will grow faster in higher temperatures (if sufficient food is given) so it is helpful to keep fry warm (76°- 80°F).

The guppy does well in medium-hard water. They prefer an alkaline pH which can be quite high (8.0 or higher) as long as the guppy is acclimatized carefully and does not experience pH swings.

Guppies are considered by many to be brackish (meaning they can live in a combination of fresh and sea water), and, as a matter of fact, it is possible for guppies to live in salt water with proper conditioning.

Betta FAQs

Below are some common questions and answers, gathered from different sources, about Betta Fish :

Why does my Siamese Fighting fish lie on the bottom of the tank?
Answer: This is normally a sign of less than perfect water conditions or the fish may have an illness. Checking the nitrate levels of your water will show if they are too high, if so do more regular water changes.

Why do male Siamese fighting fish blow bubbles when alone?
Answer: These fish create nests when they feel happy. They don't necessarily need a female to be present in the tank in order to start building a nest.

What happens when Bettas eat too much?
Answer: They become fat and this usually leads to health problems. Such Bettas' immune system is not strong. Especially when they become older, the probability of being sick will be much higher than in case of normally fed Bettas.

Which fish complement a Siamese fighting fish?
Answer: Siamese fighting fishes (males) are highly aggressive and will often be described as belligerent towards other males. It is not advised to let them live other males of the same species. The males will even exhibit aggression toward females of their own species.

They are, however, peaceful toward species such as Tetras, Plecos, Loaches, Cory's and so on. Bettas may feel disturbed when there are too many fish in the tank and they will become shy in such a situation.

What happens when 2 male Betta Splendens are added to the same tank?
Answer: The first thing that will happen is that they will fight until one of the males has been killed. They will both try to claim the tank, so 2 males should never be placed together.

What fish will fight with bettas?
Answer: Other male bettas will attack and nip off fellow male bettas fins and females bettas may be harassed for breeding if housed with other male bettas. A good rule of thumb is to stay away from cichlids and fish with similar tail structures as the betta.

What happens if a male Betta takes a dislike to a female Betta?
Answer: The male Betta will terrorize the female and attack her. At the first sign of this the fish should be separated else the male will end up killing off the female.

Why is my Betta fish losing its color?
Answer: This means that the Betta is getting stressed over something. This will lead to ill health in the fish. Betta fish do not like water flow, turning the filters down will help. Test the water to make sure that it is good quality water in the aquarium.

What is happening when a betta fish turns white?
Answer: Stress and disease or fungus can cause this to happen. It is recommended to test the water and eventually start a treatment.

What is the special water for the betta fish called?
Answer: Generally it is simply called betta water, but depending on what pet store you frequent it may have a brand name.

Which food will make my Betta strong?
Answer: Brine shrimp and bloodworms are ideal for Betta fish, Tetra Bettamin is also a specially designed flake food for Betta. Only feed sparingly as they have small stomachs.

What size of the tank should be used in breeding a Betta fish?
Answer: A 3-5 gallon tank is large enough for breeding Betta; remember, when the fry are hatched they will need to be moved to a larger growing on tank.

At what age will my Betta fish mate?
Answer: This can vary between individual fish but most Betta fish will become sexually responsive after the age of 3 months.

Is it safe to add a female fighting fish to the tank when the male is making a bubble nest?
Answer: This should be the prime time to add the female. Condition the female first with some live foods and when added to the tank, see if the male invites her to the bubble nest. If the first attempt does not succeed try adding a different female.

Why does my female Betta stay still when I add the male Betta?
Answer: The female may not wish to mate with the male or she may feel intimidated by his presence in the tank. Try separating them for longer or using a different male.

How can you tell when a female Betta has eggs?
Answer: Quite simply her belly will swell and a white spot will appear to grow in front of her anal fin.

When is mating season for Betta fish?
Answer: There is no specific mating season for these fish, getting the correct water conditions and feeding the right diet will often persuade the fish to mate.

What do you need to breed betta fish?
Answer: To start you need a male and a female. Then you need to ensure that they are getting a good quality diet, some live food will give them a boost. No circulation as this will disturb the bubble nest. The temperature must not go below 77 degrees Fahrenheit and the pH should be near 6.5.

What do you do if your Betta has built a bubble nest in the tank?
Answer: Basically there is not a lot you can do. If the female is in the tank he will invite her over to the nest. The only way you can help them is to turn down the water flow on the filters so that the bubble nest will not get damaged.

How can I tell if my female Betta has laid her eggs?
Answer: Once the female has laid her eggs, her belly will have shrunken down in size and the male will be protecting the nest, this will include chasing the female away.

Why has my female Betta released her eggs before introducing the male?
Answer: This all depends on how long she has been holding the eggs. After a period of time her present eggs will be released ready for the next batch.

How do I feed my Betta fish fry?
Answer: Never feed the fry until they have absorbed the yolk sacs and are swimming horizontally. Their first meal should be micro worms, after the first day they should be fed twice a day.

What should the fry of Betta fish eat?
Answer: Artemia salina. They can also eat egg yolk.

When do Betta fry start to swim?
Answer: Betta fry become free swimmers once they have absorbed their yolk sacs. This normally takes 2-3 days. When free swimming, the male should be removed from the tank.

I have bought a Betta fish, how do I introduce him to the tank?
Answer: All fish need acclimatizing to your water conditions, float the bag for 20 minutes and then slowly add your tank water to the bag before releasing the fish.

Why are Betta fish kept in small bowls?
Answer: Betta fish do not like any water movement as they are not capable of swimming against it. They are also Labyrinth fish so do not need to obtain oxygen from the water. However, we do not recommend anyone to house Betta fish in small bowls!!!

How do you sex fighting fish fry?
Answer: There is no way of sexing any fish fry. As the young develop the male fighting fish will develop long flowing fins and bright coloration. The female will be much drabber with shorter finnage.

Why do my fighting fish just lie around?
Answer: Fighting fish prefer aquariums with no water flow and often this is not the case. If the tank is not set up to their liking they will show their disapproval and unhappiness by becoming inactive. Bad water quality can also lead to lethargy in the fish.

Keeping Betta Fish In a bowl

If you'd like the pleasure of a beautiful fish but don't have the space for a large aquarium, a fish bowl may be just the solution you need to bring a finny friend to your home. While it is true that a small fish bowl is not the best home for any type of fish, FISH BOWLS DO WORK if you get the right size, the right fish, and provide it with appropriate care and maintenance.

Take note however, that contrary to popular belief, fish bowls are not that easy to care for. In fact, it is easier to care for a larger fish tank. If you choose to keep fish in a bowl, there are several things you should keep in mind. Fish produceswaste (urine and feces) as they consume food, and these contribute to poor water quality. In a small environment like a bowl, it is easier for these wastes to accumulate and reach toxic levels due to the small volume of water to neutralize them. So if you could afford to keep a larger tank rather than a small bowl, please do so! Fish bowls are only intended for the rest of us who don't have enough space to keep a large tank, such as those who stay in college dormitories or small offices. This guide will help you learn how to keep a fish bowl at its best.

The Fish: Why Betta?

Bettas are one of the usual reasons of impulse buying and sudden giving in to the aquarium hobby. They are scientifically known as Betta splendens which is Latin for "Beautiful Warrior". Thanks to their brilliant coloration and long flowing fins, they are one of, if not the most recognized aquarium fish. It is common to people who just pass by the pet shop with no intention of buying a tank nor a fish in the first place and end up carrying a fish bowl kit with a Betta as they go home.

The beauty about Betta fish is that they don't need a large tank to survive, they can cope quite well in a small bowl without the requirement of filtration or aeration. Again, I would like to stress that A FISH BOWL IS NOT THE BEST HOME FOR ANY TYPE OF FISH. A larger tank with a filtration system would surely make a better home and a happier fish. Nevertheless, if a fish bowl is properly cared for and maintained well, a Betta fish will do just fine in such a small environment.

The Betta is also commonly known as the "Siamese Fighting Fish" because the males will always fight each other. You should never keep males together for this reason, but can keep a Betta with other gentle fishes if you have a large aquarium. In a fish bowl, however, it is best to keep a SINGLE Betta. Putting many fishes in a bowl means more waste, poorer water quality, and eventually a sick fish! Remember, a Betta fish will be happy being alone and will not get bored.

Bettas are tropical fishes. They thrive on temperatures between 24˚C(75˚F) and 30˚C(86˚F). Since you cannot equip a fish bowl with water heater, you should situate it where it's very warm and never put it in an air-conditioned room where the temperature can get exceedingly cold.

An interesting characteristic of the Betta fish is its capability to breathe surface air. It has a breathing organ called "labyrinth" which is somewhat similar to the human lungs. This is an important factor that allows the Betta fish to survive in a bowl without an air pump.

Another interesting trait of the Betta fish is its ability to recognize its "master". Once your Betta gets to know that you are the one feeding him, he'll flutter around happily when you approach. He'll show off his vibrant color, spreading his beautiful fins, and push against the glass of his bowl as if he wants to greet you. Well in fact he is actually begging for food but still, isn't that just lovely? Other fishes don't even know you're alive.

A funny thing about Betta fish is that when it is happy and healthy, it will continually create bubbles on the top of the water. No, the water is not dirty nor soapy! It is just his way of making a 'nest' when he is ready to spawn. It is where the male places the eggs of the female and continue to tend it until the eggs hatch.

Oh, and did I always call the Betta a 'he'? Yes! Those beautiful Betta fishes with long fins and vibrant colors you see in pet shops are males. The females are not as highly colored, and have much shorter fins. You can keep a female Betta too, if you wish. Both have the same requirements for keeping. But never keep a male and a female together in a small bowl. The male tends to be aggressive towards the female after some time. You can keep several females in a large aquarium. But, as I mentioned, keep only a SINGLE Betta in a fish bowl!

The Bowl: How to make it work?

Here you will find some things to consider before buying a fish bowl as well as information on how to setup your fish bowl.

Bowl: The first important thing to consider is the size of the bowl. 1.5 to 2 gallons is best. If you do not have a whole lot of space, you can get at least 1/2 gallon. Anything less than that is not recommended. While it is true that most pet shop owners keep Bettas in very small containers such as plastic cups, this is a very cruel thing to do! We all want a happy, living fish, not just a mere 'survivor' fish! So please, buy him a decent sized bowl! Not only would it provide a wider space for the fish to swim around, it would also hold a larger volume of water to dissipate waste and, therefore, require easier maintenance.

Appropriate Home: It is best to situate the bowl where the temperature is 25˚C(77˚F), but the fish will do just fine in a wider temperature range of 24˚C(75˚F) to 30˚C(86˚F). Since you cannot equip a small bowl with water heater, keep it away from sources of hot or cold air such as direct sunlight, air-conditioners, heater vents, etc.

Decorations. You can have a plant (live or plastic) on the bowl. They do not only make the bowl look nicer but they also provide hiding places for the Betta, which is also a requirement for almost any type of fish. Live plants also reduce somewastes on the water. You should watch for rotting leaves, however. They need to be cut as they will pollute the water. A rock or two can be added as decor, and a broken clay pot (also a hiding place) provides interest to the fish. You can add gravel only after you learn to feed properly.

Equipments: Small, gentle filters are an option to help keep the water crystal clear, reduce waste, and therefore lessen maintenance. There are filters small enough to fit in a bowl, such as corner filters and undergravel filters. If you use one of these filters, it will also require an air pump to operate. Use an air clamp (or air valve) to regulate air flow as Betta fishes do not like too much water movement.

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Water: Once all the decorations and equipments are set-up, you can now add water. Fill bowl with bottled drinking water. TAP WATER IS NOT SAFE FOR FISH! If you are going to use tap water, treat it with chlorine neutralizer. If you live in the US your water probably has chloramine, so use a water conditioner that would neutralize both chlorine and chloramine. It would be best to use a water conditioner that will also eliminate ammonia and heavy metals such as copper and zinc, however this is not a requirement. Add a pinch of aquarium salt or rock salt (not iodized salt), it is good for the fish. Let water stand for at least one hour before adding fish to let it warm up (or cool down) to room temperature. Take note that Betta fishes jump! So fill the bowl only at least two inches from the top. Adding a cover to the bowl is advisable, but make sure that air can freely move in and out of the cover as the Betta fish need to breathe surface air. Having a top on your bowl also reduces water loss due to evaporation and reduces the amount of debris that collects in the water from the environment.

Plan Ahead: Set aside water now for next cleaning. Fill a water bottle with tap water, leaving two inches of space from the top. Add a few drops of water conditioner and store covered for three days. This water will not only be of similar temperature but also chlorine free. If you are using bottled drinking water, it may be stored covered in its original container.

Transferring Your Fish: Now that your fish bowl is properly set-up, you are probably very excited to see your fish swimming in his new home. WAIT! DON'T PUT THE FISH STRAIGHT TO THE BOWL YET! Note that fishes are EXTREMELY sensitive to fluctuating water conditions. The water from the store where your fish came from would have a different pH, hardness, etc. from the water in your home. Putting him in your new water without allowing him to "adjust" could stress him and cause him to get sick and even die! So, take time to do these steps:

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• Get a separate container, such as a big drinking glass and put the fish together with some of the water from the bag. Fill it by only about 1/2 of its capacity as you will be adding some new water later. Let it stand for about 30 minutes or until the temperature of the water becomes similar to that of the water in your bowl. Your fingers are a great tool to compare the temperatures of the water from the store and your new water.
• After the temperature has stabilized, you are ready for the next step. Scoop an equal amount of water from the bowl into the container. There should now be about twice as much water in the container. Let it stand for another fifteen to twenty minutes as the fish adjusts to the sudden change in water condition. You will probably need to cover the container to keep the fish from jumping as the water level is now higher.
• Now your fish has adjusted to your new water and you are ready to transfer him to the bowl. DO NOT POUR THE WATER FROM THE PET SHOP INTO THE BOWL! Using a small fish net, carefully net the fish out of the container and place him gently into the bowl.

 Now relax and enjoy your new Betta fish bowl!

Activated Carbon

by Timothy A. Hovanec

Activated carbon is one of the most misunderstood filtration media available to the hobbyist. Virtually every filter system sold in the aquarium trade contains activated carbon or a section for its use. However, there are many misconceptions about what activated carbon can and cannot do. The purpose of this month's column is to explain some of the basics about activated carbon. More detailed information can be found in two articles I have written on this subject for Aquarium Fish Magazine (May 1993 and May 1998).

Activated carbon (or just carbon for this article) can be made from almost any organic based material such as wood, coal, peat, coconut shells, and many others. Activating the material means increasing its internal surface area and getting rid of impurities. This is done through a special process which involves heating the material to nearly 2,000 (F in a controlled environment. So the first incorrect myth is that one can reactivate their carbon by placing it in the kitchen oven. This will not work, so don't waste your time and make a mess of the kitchen.

The best carbon for use in water filtration to remove the dissolved organics is bituminous coal based carbon. While there are some who would argue with this statement, the facts support my declaration. Bituminous coal-based carbon is used extensively for filtering drinking water and in many other applications. Carbons made from other base materials have their place, but bituminous coal based carbon is by far the most widely used in the liquid filtration field. The reason for this is that the internal surface of bituminous coal based carbon contains a large amount of transitional pores which have a size between 40 and 5,000 angstroms. The majority of the pores one gets with other base materials are either much smaller (called micropores) or larger (called macropores).

Without getting more technical, the size (i. e. type) and amount of the internal pores determine how well a carbon will remove a substance. Extensive research by carbon manufacturers has shown that bituminous coal based carbons have the right mix of pore size and internal surface area such that they remove more pollutants per gram of carbon than any of the other types of base materials in liquid applications.

Carbon removes a class of material called dissolved organic compounds (DOC). These compounds are produced by many different processes in the aquarium. The two major categories of organic substances that carbon removes are tannins and phenols. Tannins give the water a yellow-brown color. They are produced mainly by the breakdown of plant material, but there are other sources too. Phenols give a fish tank that characteristic "fishy" smell. Carbon can also remove chlorine and some heavy metals through other processes.

Carbon does not remove ammonia, nitrite or nitrate from water. It also does not have an effect on water hardness or alkalinity. Some carbons will leach phosphate into the aquarium water. The phosphate can be a naturally occurring part of the carbon or it can be from phosphoric acid which is sometimes used in the activation process. In either case, the phosphate is not toxic, rather it can contribute to eutrophic conditions in the aquarium water and may lead to algae blooms. If you are concerned about phosphates, switch brands of carbon. There are several bituminous coal based carbons available from reputable companies that are phosphate-free.

There is much written about the use of carbon in seawater aquaria. Some authors recommend against the use of carbon in seawater aquaria because carbon will remove trace elements. As with most situations in the aquarium hobby, the correct response to the claim that activated carbon removes trace elements from seawater is yes and no; mostly no. By definition, trace elements are those elements found in the ocean with a concentration of less than 1 ppb. These are elements such as cesium, chromium, cadmium, selenium, cobalt, silver, lead, tin, helium, lanthanum and cerium. For these elements, it has never been shown that they are really needed in the aquarium. In fact, adding some to the water would really be poisoning the tank. Further, these elements are rather insoluble at the pH of seawater, so activated carbon cannot remove them from the water. Thus the correct technical answer is that in the normal marine aquarium, activated carbon will not remove trace elements. However, if one wanted to remove some of the above listed trace elements from seawater with activated carbon it could be done by changing the pH and some other factors to get the elements in the soluble form but this would render the seawater uninhabitable.

So what elements might carbon remove from seawater that would be of interest to the marine hobbyist? These elements would be copper, iodine, iron and molybdenum which, by definition, are called minor elements. However, once again, how much of any of these elements carbon might remove depends upon the element's solubility in seawater. Most of these elements are not in the soluble form in seawater and, as such, cannot be removed from the seawater by carbon. The bottom line is that activated carbon is going to have no effect on the majority of elements found in seawater.

Activated carbon should be part of every aquarium filtration system. This is another statement that some have disagreed with me about. However, personal experience with using activated carbon for years along with data collected in my laboratories supports my claim. Carbon has been used continuously in all types of freshwater tanks, saltwater fish-only tanks, reef tanks and large display systems in the labs and never has there been a problem.

The reasons given for not using carbon or not using it continuously include: the carbon causes some diseases, it removes beneficial elements/substances for the water, and eventually the carbon will de-adsorb everything killing the tank inhabitants. None of these reasons have ever been supported by experiments or tests. Rather, they are myths. And as myths, they circulate through the hobby growing a life of their own which becomes hard to kill.

The reason to use carbon is that it removes dissolved organic compound from the water. This has been shown experimentally. Removing the dissolved organics will increase the effectiveness of the biological filter. Again published studies have demonstrated this. Plus, removing the dissolved organics will make the water look cleaner because it will be clearer.

For most filters, GAC comes conveniently pre-packaged so that it can be easily removed from the filter and replaced. The most efficient method is to get as much of the water to go through the carbon on each pass through the filter. This can be done by spreading the carbon out in a thin layer rather than letting it pile up in a bag.

A problem with recommending the use of activated carbon is that there are no easy guides for answering the common questions regarding the use of carbon. Questions such as how much carbon is needed in a tank and how often it should be changed can only be answered definitively by using it in your aquarium. This is because every aquarium is different and how they are maintained is different. Because of the individual differences in tanks, these guidelines are, at best, educated guesses.

But general guidelines will work and those that I recommend are based on the observations of many aquaria run for long periods of time. Thus, for most situations, if your tank is not overcrowded or overfed, then changing the carbon once a month is sufficient. If you have big fish or a lot of fish, change the carbon every 2 or 3 weeks.

To get the most out of your carbon make sure to mechanically filter the water before it reaches the carbon, as this will keep the carbon from clogging with debris. A good practice is to rinse the carbon under water for a few seconds each week to get rid of particulate material. This will keep the water paths open and help you get the full benefit of the carbon.

Carbon is not a substitute for water changes. You cannot stop doing other maintenance chores. It is only one part of the filtration system. Most filters make using carbon easy and carbon is not that expensive. Carbon will help you get the most enjoyment from your aquarium and provide a healthy environment for your fish. Good fishkeeping!

(c)1993, Timothy A. Hovanec

Originally published in Aquarium Fish Magazine, May. 1993

Basics of Flowerhorn Fish Keeping

Introduction

Flowerhorn cichlids are ornamental aquarium fish noted for their vivid colors and the distinctively shaped heads for which they are named. Their head protuberance, or kok, is formally termed a "nuchal hump." Like blood parrot cichlids, they are man-made hybrids that do not exist in nature. First developed in Malaysia and Taiwan, they are now kept by fish hobbyists worldwide.

Temperature

Like most tropical fish, flower horn thrives in temperature between 20-30°C. Ideal or recommended temperature will be around 28-31°C.

Water Condition

One of the important criteria in flower horn fish keeping is the pH level of the water the it lives in. pH level is actually the measure of acidity or alkaline of the water. The pH scales ranges from 0 to 14. Flower horn fish requires moderately alkaline water, ideally between 7.5 to 8.0. In order to maintain stable water conditions, it is advisable to have a regular water change interval of once a week. It is also advisable to mix a portion of crushed coral with the gravel. This will further maintain pH stability. Like any other fish, sudden or drastic changes on the pH level can be detrimental to the flower horn fish. As precaution, it will be great to check the pH of the water periodically.

Filtration System

On the overall, flower horn fish is easily maintained. No doubt that it is a hardy breed. But to bring out the best of the fish (be it coloration, nuchal hump and overall health), we should incorporate an efficient filtration system. There are quite a number of filtration systems in the market. Ideally the filtration system should have these criteria:

• Easily Cleaned.

• Efficient mechanical pre-filter.

• A biological system that is protected from clogging.

Last but not least, regular periodic partial water changes.

Water Change

For some hobbyist, water change is a chore that they dreaded most. In order to have a well maintained tank, periodic partial water change should be done at least once a month. Be aware that clear water with stable water pH and excellence water temperature does not indicate that the water in the tank is clean. Besides, there is no filtration system that is able to keep the tank 100% clean. Furthermore, regular water change will ensure the growth and health of the fish. Be doubly aware that regular topping up of the water in the tank does not count as water evaporates. The waste from the fish still stays behind.

Water Movement/Flow

Most of the time, the flow of the water in the tank is overlooked by hobbyist. But it is vital to the health of the fish.

• Alleviate the possibility of thermal layering. In other words, uneven distribution of water temperature.

• It also helps to distribute oxygenated water in the tank.

• It prevents the formation of thin film on the water surface that will hinder the gaseous exchange between air and water in the tank.

Salt and its Benefits

Salt at times acts like a stabilizer. But in some areas, the dissolved salt content in the water is low, and the addition of aquarium salt might simply make the fish feel more “at home”. It acts like a disinfectant as it helps in killing certain parasites. Salt also provides sodium and chloride ions that helps fish stabilize.

Feeding

Flower horn fish has very good appetite. This hybrid can either take live food or fish pellets. It is advisable to feed the fish several times a day in small quantity. Ideally to have a mixture of life and fish feed. This will make the fish healthier. Besides, the intensity of coloration greatly depends on the diet of the fish. Excessive feeding of color enhancer is not advisable as it may contain harmful chemicals. Please do it in moderation.

Tank Environment

In general, it is important that we provide some furnishings for the fish. The intent is to stabilize and make it feel more at home. All that is required by flower horn fish is to have a thin layer of gravel in the tank. Bare in mind that stressed fish will cause the fish to loose its coloration, nuchal hump and may stun its growth.

Basic Traits

As flower horn fish is from the South American Cichlid family (under the genus Cichlasoma), this fish is very aggressive and territorial in nature. Coexisting with other fish is not advisable. Thus, if you plan to have 2 or more fish in a tank, it is a requirement that you have the tank partitioned. This will prevent the fish from fighting that may lead to even death.

Facts and Rumors of Flowerhorn Fish

Flower Horn fish is a Cichlid which is classified under the genus Cichlasoma that comes from the South American Cichlid family. Within just a few years, it has ignited a new trend in the tropical fish market all over Asia and spreading to western countries as well.

Similar to Blood Parrot fish, Flower Horns originated from selective cross breeding. This beautiful hybrid is thought to be cross-breed between Cichlasoma Trimaculatus, Cichlasoma Festae and Jingang Blood Parrot. But to date, a lot of better quality Flower Horn has been produced due to the intensified eagerness of breeders to produce the best quality fish resulting in availability of various strains such as Golden Flower Horn (aka Kam Fa), Golden Mercury, Coronation Link, etc. The most distinguished feature of Flower Horn fish is by its protruding head and its unique body design.

Flower Horn fish is highly adaptable and is not very demanding when it comes to techniques of care. In general, they are relatively easy to raise and suitable for fish hobbyist who has never kept a tropical fish before. As all living things, Flower Horns display their most glorious forms and colors when they live comfortably in a suitable environment. For detail techniques of care, the instruction can be found at Basics of Flower Horn Fish Keeping. Choosing a healthy beautiful Flower Horn is as important and the graphical description can be found at Flower Horn Fish Standards.

Some parties have claimed that we can ‘play’ with Flower Horns. As Flower Horn originated from South American Cichlid, they are quite territorial in nature. In actual fact, the Flower Horn fish is actually trying to get rid of the intruder; be it a stick or a hand. Thanks to its aggressive nature, Flower Horn is said to be more interesting and responsive, unlike most pet fish which shy away under the same condition.

In the aspect of ‘feng-shui’, a fully developed hump on the Flower Horn’s head symbolizes prosperity, luck and longevity. It is believed that a huge hump on the forehead enhances a better feng-shui for the owner. Thus, the saying goes “the bigger, the better”!

Another interesting feature of the Flower Horn is the black horizontal markings or known as just ‘flowers’. Some of these markings resemble Chinese characters and this fetch a high price for the owner. Additionally, rumor has it that early Flower Horn hobbyist had won lottery numbers by the digits supposedly seen on these horizontal black markings / flowers. This resulted in a believe that Flower Horn brings prosperity, luck and longevity.

All in all, the unique appearance of Flower Horn is the main reason that attracts people’s interest and attention. This is undoubtedly one of the causes that Flower Horn fish has been able to generate such popularity in such a short time.

Question & Answer (Q&A) Section

Why does the forehead/nuchal hump of my flowerhorn fish shrink after each water change?

This is due to the changes in the water quality that the fish has grown accustomed to. The fish will be back to its old self in a day or two.

How can I tell if the fish is sick?

A sick flower horn fish will be inactive and suddenly loss its appetite. Furthermore, the color of the fish may turn dull.

Can we prevent the fish from getting sick?

Ensure that there is periodic water change. Besides, water quality and temperature has to remain stable. In addition, if you are feeding live feed, it has to be disinfected first.

How do I disinfect the live feed?

Have a small tank that is treated with anti bacterial solution. Place the live feed into the tank a few hours before feeding.

Is fish feed a better choice compared to live feed?

Ideally, you should have a combination of fish feed and live feed. No doubt, fish feed will be more economical.

Is there a recommended frequency in feeding the fish?

You should at least feed the fish twice a day. Make sure that the fish is full after each feeding.

I’m going away for a couple of days. Will the flower horn fish die of starvation?

It is not detrimental to the health of the fish. Just feed it as you would normally do before leaving. Do not overfeed, as the excess food will only dirty the water. In the event if you are planning on a longer trip, just purchased an auto feeder.

Should the aquarium lights be turned on the entire time?

It is best to have the lights turned on for at least six hours a day. This will help to keep the fish healthy and at the same time, projects its vibrant colors. The lights should be turned off when we go to bed. This will be the time for the fish to rest.

What type of background posters should we use for the aquarium?

There are lots of designs available. Do not use posters that have a dark background. Flower horn fish basically requires an atmosphere that is bright. The color of the fish will be vibrant when we use a bright colored background.

Why is the color of my flower horn fish dull?

Check the pH level of the water. It might be due to high acidity in the water.

Why does the forehead / nuchal hump of my flower horn small?

It is primary due to the breed of the particular flower horn fish. Improper atmosphere and feeding could be the causes too.

The flower horn fish that I had recently bought is very timid and dark in color. Is something wrong with my fish? 

It is normal that the fish is timid and dark in color. Give it a couple more days, once it gets used to its new environment, the fish will be back to its old self. During the period of adjustment, feed the flower horn fish sparingly. Overfeeding or excess fish feed would deteriorate the water quality of the fish tank. The adjustment period of the flower horn would normally take around a week or two.

How can I tell the sex of the flower horn fish?

Generally, it will be easier to tell the sex of the fish when it reaches 4 inches in length. At this size, most female flower horn fish should be able to start laying eggs. The most accurate option to determine the sex of this fish is by looking at the anal pore of the fish. The male fish will have a V-shaped anal pore as compared to the female which has a U-shaped anal pore. Additionally, most female do not have a protruding nuchal hump. The body will tend to look smaller as compared to a male which have a fuller and wider body.

Can flower horn fish be kept in colder climate countries?

You most definitely can. All you need to do is add a water heater in the tank.

Why does my female flower horn fish eat all its eggs?

When threatened, the female fish will tend to eat its eggs. Thus, you should place the female in a secluded area where it feels safer.

What is the life span of flower horn fish?

There is no exact record of the life span of flower horn fish. But it should live at least 6 years.