Driftwood in Aquarium

Importance of Driftwood in Aquariums

Planted freshwater aquariums require natural driftwood for optimum beauty and function. Driftwood enhances water quality and creates a suitable, natural habitat for freshwater fish and ornamental plants. The type, size, color and shape of driftwood should be selected based on the needs of the aquarium's live inhabitants and the growing habits of any plants. While almost all aquariums can benefit from driftwood, it is an especially critical accessory for tanks that are designed to mimic the "blackwater" habitats of the Amazon river.

Aesthetic Use

Few aquarium ornaments offer the rustic charm of natural driftwood. Synthetic aquarium decorations might be brightly colored or elaborate, but driftwood creates a magical and earthy ambiance unsurpassed by any man-made accessory. Driftwood tends to complement vividly colored fish, so aquarists often choose to pair driftwood with tetras, guppies and cichlids. Despite advances in modern manufacturing technology, no synthetic material can match the individuality and intricacy of natural driftwood, whose organic origin contributes to a harmonious environment and creates a successful and visually impressive aquarium.

Anchoring Plants

Live plants are an essential aspect of successful aquascaping and fishkeeping, but plants can be even more temperamental than tropical fish. Some popular aquarium plants, like java moss and java fern, thrive attached to natural logs and stumps. For best results, these plants should be loosely attached to driftwood using fishing line until their roots have fully attached. Driftwood might also include cavities that can anchor plants without the use of fishing line. Over time, plants attached to driftwood can help to create an earthy, aged look. They also provide a multilayer canopy that enables shy and light-sensitive fish to feel more comfortable and safe.

Water Composition

Driftwood contains naturally occurring tannins that will slightly lower the pH of water over time if added to an aquarium without preparation. Many varieties of tropical fish prefer slightly acidic water, so aquarists might take advantage of this feature and use it as a natural method for reducing pH. Additionally, the tannins in driftwood can alter the color of the water to create a "tea-stained" appearance, which is ideal for aquariums that mimic the Amazon's so-called blackwater regions. Aquarists might choose to avoid chemical alterations and discoloration by soaking or boiling driftwood before using it in an aquarium.

Benefits for Fish

Many common varieties of tropical fish require hiding spaces and plants, and driftwood can provide cavern-like shelters. Driftwood allows sensitive fish to enjoy areas with subdued lighting and can help minimize the number of injuries that occur as a result of fights. By enabling a densely planted aquarium, driftwood can also enhance the amount of dissolved oxygen available. The tannins in driftwood are also a healthy way to create the slightly acidic environment many tropical fish require. Driftwood is an essential accessory for maintaining a healthy, viable population of freshwater fish.

Precautions

While driftwood for reptile habitats can look like an ideal accessory for an aquarium, fishkeepers should only select forms of driftwood that are designed for use in fish tanks. Decorative driftwood is often sprayed with preservatives that can be harmful to fish and plants, and wild-gathered wood often contains mold spores and algae.. Aquarists who keep pH-sensitive fish should test their water frequently after adding driftwood, since a sharp increase in acidity can prove harmful for certain species. To avoid contamination, driftwood should be rinsed before it's added to any tank.

Adding Driftwood to Your Aquarium

Adding natural structures such as driftwood to your aquarium requires some preparation and thought to bring out their best aesthetic qualities. Driftwood and other natural structures make up a large portion of your aquarium. Any adjustments needed can cause significant stress and in some cases require taking apart the aquarium and starting all over. Do it right the first time. With a bit of planning, you can have a beautifully aquascaped aquarium with minimal effort and disturbance.

Preparation

Before placing the driftwood in your aquarium, draw a rough sketch of your aquarium and where you want to locate the driftwood. Consider how your aquarium will look with the driftwood positioned vertically as opposed to the conventional horizontal position. Explore different designs on paper to create a unique aquatic landscape. Drawing a rough sketch allows you to experiment and visualize your aquascape without disturbing your aquarium inhabitants in the process.

Cleaning Driftwood

After determining where to place the driftwood, it needs to be cleaned before placement. Use a clean brush to scrub the driftwood thoroughly to remove any dirt or debris. Do not use soap or any chemical cleansers. Any residue will poison your aquarium. The cleaned driftwood will then need to be soaked to saturate and "cure."

Curing Driftwood

Though most driftwood will remain submerged underwater, some driftwood remains slightly buoyant until it is fully saturated and "waterlogged." Soak the driftwood in a large bucket as long as possible making sure the entire piece is completely underwater. A minimum period of 1 to 2 weeks is recommended to allow total saturation.

Soaking also allows excess tannins that can darken and discolor the water, to leach out. The discoloration caused by the tannins will not harm your aquarium inhabitants but it will lower the pH slightly over time. Some hobbyists take advantage of this feature and utilize the tannins to achieve soft water conditions preferred by many tropical fish.

Monitor the soaking driftwood regularly to see if the water needs to be changed. As the water darkens, empty all of the water and gently rinse the driftwood. Fill the bucket with clean dechlorinated or RO water and continue soaking the driftwood. As you repeat this process, you will notice that the water will be less "tea-stained." When you no longer notice any significant discoloration for several days in a row, the driftwood is ready for placement.

Boiling Driftwood

Boiling driftwood has several benefits. Just like steeping a tea bag in hot water, boiling driftwood in a large stockpot encourage more tannins to leech out faster, thereby shortening the curing process. More importantly, boiling sterilizes the driftwood, killing algal or fungal spores that can take hold once introduced into the aquarium with the driftwood. Boiling the driftwood for 1-2 hours will sterilize the driftwood.

Once the driftwood has been properly prepared, it is ready for placement. Refer to the sketches you made early to place the driftwood in the ideal location. The most convenient moment to arrange your aquatic landscape is after you have removed some water during a water change. Simply place the driftwood into your aquarium and refill. With a bit of patience and some planning, you can create a beautiful aquatic landscape the first time with minimal stress to you and your aquarium inhabitants.

 

Things To Consider:

1. When purchasing driftwood, make sure it is safe for aquarium use. Driftwood sold for reptiles may look ideal for aquariums but it may contain chemicals harmful to fish.
2. Though tempting, avoid using wood or roots found outdoors. Often times, these pieces have not dried or cured properly and can rot when placed in your aquarium.
3. Large pieces of driftwood, even thoroughly soaked, can still retain buoyancy. Secure large pieces of driftwood to rocks with monofilament to anchor them.
4. Plants such as Java Moss or Java Fern can be attached to driftwood to create an aged "natural look." Loosely secure the plants with monofilament (fishing line). The fishing line can be removed once the plants have naturally attached and grown into the driftwood.
5. Even after the curing/soaking process, some driftwood may still release tannins and discolor the water. Use chemical filter media such as Purigen or activated carbon to clarify your water.
6. The "tea-stained" effect caused by driftwood simulates Amazonian "Black Water" biotopes where many brightly colored Tetras like Neons, Cardinals, Rummy-noses, and Bleeding Hearts. If this is your preference, then only a short soak and scrub is necessary before adding driftwood to your aquarium. 

Yoyo Loach - Profile

Scientific Name(s)	: Botia almorhae, Botia lohachata
Common Name(s)	: Pakistani Loach, Yoyo Loach
Family	: Cobitidae
Species Type	: Asian Loaches
Maximum Size	: 4.5 inches
Life Span	: 5 years
Natural Habitat	: Asian Streams (Pakistan and India)
Minimum Tank Size	: 20 gallons
Tank Region	: Bottom
Possible Tank Mates	: Other peaceful fish such as loaches, chromis viridis, danios, neons, plecos and barbs
Temperature Range	: 74°F - 84°F
pH Range	: 6 – 8
Hardness	: 5° - 15°

Description: The yoyo loach gets its name from the markings on its sides, which in some specimens spells out the word yoyo. A great fish for a small community aquarium. Best kept in groups of 3+ as the yoyo loach is a gregarious fish and enjoys the company of its own kind. May be slightly more active at night but they often adjust to daytime feedings and become very active with the lights on.

Breeding Information: Very difficult. No known way found while researching

Sexing Information: No known way to determine visually.

Diet: Omnivorous - does well with flake or pellet foods supplimented with bloodworms and tubifex worms.

Temperament: Generally peaceful schooling fish. Best kept in groups of three or more.

Common Diseases: None specific.

Clown Loach - Profile

Scientific Name(s)	: Chromobotia macracanthus
Common Name(s)	: Clown Loach, Tiger Botia
Family	: Cobitidae
Species Type:	: Loaches
Maximum Size	: 11 inches
Life Span	: 20 years
Natural Habitat	: Rivers of Indonesia and Borneo
Minimum Tank Size	: 55 gallons
Aggressive	: No, but tolerates aggression
Tank Region	: Bottom of tank
Possible Tank Mates	: Any that require similar water parameters
Temperature Range	: 77°F - 84°F
pH Range	: 6 - 7.6
Hardness	: 5° - 12°

Description: As a bottom-dwelling peaceful schooling fish the Clown Loach has gained great popularity in the hobby. It has the odd tendency to school with fish of similar coloring. This fish does grow large so plan your tank size accordingly.

Breeding Information: Difficult to breed in captivity but breeding in captivity has been documented.

Sexing Information: No known method

Diet: Omnivorous bottom dweller that enjoys flakes, pellets, freeze-dried foods or worms

Temperament: Peaceful schooling fish.

Common Diseases: Prone to Ich

Oscar Fish - Profile

      

Scientific Name(s) : Astronotus ocellatus, Acara ocellatus Common Name(s) : Oscar , Red Oscar, Tiger Oscar, Red Tiger Oscar, Marbled Cichlid, Velvet Oscar, Albino Oscar Family                      : Cichlidae Species Type : South American Cichlids Maximum Size : 14 inches Aggressive : Yes Life Span                 : 13 years Natural Habitat   : Amazon River Basin Minimum Tank Size : 55 gallons Tank Region          : All Over Possible Tank Mates : Firemouth Meeki, Catfish, Plecos, Temperature Range : 72°F - 82°F pH Range : 6 – 8 Hardness                : 5° - 20°

Description: Oscars are an omnivorous cichlid from South America. They are regarded as one of the most intelligent tropical fish species and are aware of the world outside of their aquarium. Oscars can recognize their owners from across a room and will often beg for food. The oscar fish grows very quickly and will reach up to 14 inches within a few years. It is not uncommon to have an oscar grow from 1 inch to 9 inches in a single year! Because of the size of these fish and their messy eating habits, a single oscar fish should have a 55 gallon tank at the bare minimum! A pair of oscars can be housed in a 75 gallon tank.

Breeding Information: They reach sexual maturity at 4 inches and will form life long pairs. Keep the water temperature around 82°F (28°C) and provide a spot for them to place the eggs. A large rock would work well.

Sexing Information: Oscars are very difficult to sex. The only reliable ways are to wait until they spawn or through venting. Venting is very traumatic to the fish and should really never be attempted with a pet.

Diet: Flake foods, pellet foods, live foods, blood worms, earth worms, vegetables such as romaine lettuce, cucumbers and zucchini. Most experts agree that oscars should not be fed feeder fish. They are not particularly nutritous and carry a huge risk of disease transmission.

Temperament: Oscars will eat anything that fits into their mouths. Although Oscar fish are not as aggressive as some other cichlids they will fight a lot amongst each other and mating rituals can be down right viscious!

Common Diseases: Oscars are subsceptible to HITH (Hole in the Head disiease). The 2 most recognized possible causes are poor water quality and poor diet.

The Oscar Fish

THE OSCAR FISH

The Oscar Fish (Astronotus ocellatus) is a member of the Cichlidae family and is native to various rivers and waterways in South America. They are also prevalent in some tropical locations such as the waterways and canals in Florida.

There are various different types of Oscar available commercially nowadays. Some of the most popular types of Oscar available include the Red, Tiger, Albino and Lutino. All of these have been artificially bred from the original wild, or common Oscar and will not be found in their native waters.

Nobody actually knows exactly why this fish was labeled as the "Oscar", however it has stuck and I don't suppose it will ever be called anything but the Oscar Fish. The Oscar has become one of the most popular aquarium fish in recent times and people just seem to fall in love with them as soon as we see them. They are not the most colorful aquarium fish around, and certainly not the prettiest, in fact some people may describe them as being rather ugly. However, nobody will argue that they are extremely fun to keep. They almost certain appeal to people because of the way they interact with their owners. They have been nicknamed the "River, or Water dog" because of the way they behave. They often shake their heads and tails just like a dog, they really are adorable and it won't be long before know exactly why they have gained this particular nickname.

The Oscar Fish is definitely one of the more intelligent aquarium fish that you will come across, they seem to have the ability to recognize their owners and almost seem to be aware of what is going on outside of their aquarium. Feeding time is always fun as the Oscar really does live for food and dinnertime. The Oscar is the boss of its own tank and once you have been keeping them for a while, you will realize that it's best to leave them to rearrange the tank to how they like it. They are very well known for creating havoc in the aquarium, but in an amusing way I must add. They excavate the substrate like a JCB and move rocks and decor around with ease, an Oscar aquarium can sometimes look like a battle zone. Plants don't last very long so if you want to setup a showcase display aquarium, Oscars probably aren't for you.

Oscars have become extremely popular in recent years, especially since information is readily available on the Internet. Oscars are normally purchased as small babies but grow extremely quickly and can easily reach 10 or even 11 inches within 12 months. Assuming that you are keeping your Oscar in a suitable aquarium, feeding it on a healthy diet, and keeping the water in good condition, an Oscar can easily exceed 12 inches in size within a couple of years. Most people choose Oscars over any other fish because they do possess a personality. I know that's hard to believe but it really is true. Oscars seem to be able to portray what mood they are in. At feeding time they are excitable and swim around the tank like it's the last meal they are ever going to get. On the other hand, they can often sulk like little children if something has happened which they don't like, such as a water change, or rearranging the aquarium.

There are hundreds of species of aquarium fish available to buy, many of them have beautiful colors and will make an aquarium look stunning. But there is something about the Oscar Fish that puts it in a class of its own. The Oscar will often become very tame and can be coaxed to feed from its owner's hand. Many people also like "petting" the Oscar and strangely they sometimes seem to enjoy it and will approach your hand. It's not something that we actively encourage but there's nothing wrong with doing it as long as your hands are clean and you are not too rough.

The Beginning

You may ask where all of the different types of Oscar came from. Well, as we know, there are many types of Oscar available. Tiger Oscar, Red Oscar, Albino Oscar, Red Tiger Oscar, Lemon Oscar, the list goes on. None of these Oscars will be found in the wild, they have all been bred from one original species of Oscar. This species is the Wild Oscar, sometimes referred to as the Common Oscar. Most of us have heard of the Tiger Oscar, in fact, according to the poll on this website, the Tiger Oscar is the most popular choice. The Tiger Oscar was the first commercially available strain that was developed from the original Wild Oscar. While it retains all the colours of the wild Oscar, it does contain other colours such as red or orange which was thought to be a considerable improvement on the original.

In the late 60s, the Red Oscar made an appearance for the first time. It was completely different to what was already available which got people very excited. The fish was originally bred by a businessman in Thailand. He had discovered a few unusual Oscars amongst many others and after much hard work, finally managed to breed the Red Oscar which is much loved by Many an Oscar enthusiast.

The albino Oscar is relatively new, in fact, it was developed around 20 years after the Red Oscar so I suppose it could be classed as "the new kid on the block". actually, in many cases, you be no Oscars more than likely a Lutino Oscar.If you want to be really pedantic, a true albino contains no pigmentation and will have red eyes. However, Oscars that are white and not round I referred to as albino Oscars. 

There are many other species of Oscar that you may never heard of. I will briefly cover a couple. At some stage you may come across a purple, or even a raspberry Oscar. They will probably be very striking with vibrant colours which may take your fancy. You may wonder how they manage to breed the colours in to these type of Oscars. Well, they don't, they dye them in many cases. You may be wondering how they do that to a fish, surely all the colours will run off as soon as they put it back into the water. This is where things get quite horrible. What they do is dip the fish in what can be only described as a sort of acid. The protective membrane is then burnt away and then the dye is literally painted on. They are then treated once again so that the membrane grows back. The problem is, the dye often wears off in time which leaves you with a dreary looking fish. In many people's opinion, a horrible disgusting practice that should be phased out.

Finally, I will just mention an Oscar called the vieltail. These Oscars were developed quite a few years ago but don't seem to be as abundant as all their other counterparts. Occasionally you may come across one in the fish shop. If you do decide to purchase one of these, you have to be aware that they should be kept alone so their fins can develop properly. Also, their fins are prone to damage which can expose them to various fin diseases so do think carefully before purchasing one of these.

You Want to Keep Oscars

You might be surprised to know that the Oscar Fish can live as long as a dog, up to 15 years, sometimes longer. The oldest recorded Oscar I have heard of is 21 years old. To enter into the world of keeping the Oscar Fish is to enter into a long-term relationship that will involve commitment and loyalty from yourself for the entirety of the Oscars life. The majority of people who come seeking help on our forums have purchased an Oscar without knowing anything about how to look after it. The last thing you should do is purchase the first Oscar you see. It's very easy to fall for a cute little 2 inch Oscar, take it home and put it in your 20 gallon aquarium, believe me, this happens all the time.

If you are serious about keeping the Oscar Fish then carefully read everything that is included on this website. We have spent considerable time putting together the various articles that will help newcomers understand what it takes to look after the Oscar Fish.


(Article Source: www.oscarfishlover.com)

Severum Cichlid - Profile

Scientific Name(s)	: Heros severus
Common Name(s)	: Green/Red/Gold Severum, Hero Cichlid
Family	: Cichlidae
Species Type	: South American Cichlids
Maximum Size	: 8 inches
Life Span	: 10 years
Natural Habitat	: South America
Minimum Tank Size	: 50 gallons
Tank Region	: All over
Possible Tank Mates	: Firemouth, Green Terror, Salvini, Texas, Blood Parrots
Temperature	: 72°F – 84°F
pH Range	: 5.1  - 6.5
Hardness	: 3° - 10°

Description: Severum Cichlids are South American Cichlids from the northern Amazon region of Brazil. They are known by the scientific name Heros severus and also by the name Cichlasoma severum. Their common names include the Banded Cichlid, Hero Cichlid  and the Severum. They have a body shape similar to a discus. There are two main color variations gold and green, the Gold Severum having been developed from the Green Severum. The Gold Severum has been been bred to a pale yellow iridescent color without the original distinctive dark bands. The Green Severum has a greenish body with several horizontal bands on its body.

  

Breeding Information: Severums are more difficult to breed than most New World Cichlids, because they do not form pairs as readily and the males are difficult to distinguish from the females. Like most cichlids they spawn on clean horizontal surfaces and are very good parents. 

Sexing Information: Difficult to determine via appearance

Diet: Omnivorous - Does well with flake foods, blood worms, brine shrimp and cichlid sticks. 

Temperament: Peaceful but may eat small fish.

Common Diseases: HITH - Hole in the head disease

General Information: The Green Severum is very popular as its one of the most peaceful, larger cichlids in the hobby and generally don't bother their tank mates. Green Severums are native to lakes and tributaries of the Amazon Basin in South America. Though not the true mouthbrooding "Severum" species (Heros Severus), Green Severums are very attractive and grow larger than their mouthbrooding relatives; not to mention their remarkable breeding colors of intensely bright orange-red on their bellies, anal fins, and pelvic fins in addition to their bright red eyes and beautiful green bodies with faint vertical bands. Males have extended anal, dorsal, and pelvic fins as well as worm-like markings on their faces and operculum. There are two distinct color morphs of the species that have identical needs and feeding habits, Green and Gold. Due to their popularity and successful breeding, the Green Severum is always available via local retailers and online vendors.

Green Severums require an aquarium of 55 gallons for a pair and the aquarium should be larger (75-90 gallons) if multiple tank mates are added. They should be provided with a fine sand to smooth gravel substrate and a few structures for shelter (driftwood, rocks, and vegetation) and at least one cave. Live plants are greatly appreciated, but don't always last long unless a prolific species is used (Anacharis, Cabomba, Hornwort); although omnivorous they have a "sweet tooth" for live plants and vegetables. High quality biological, chemical, and mechanical filtration is recommended (they are cichlids after all) as well as slightly acidic and soft water. 

Lighting intensity isn't an issue, but some areas of shade are always appreciated (floating plants are great for this as well as caves). Green Severums are relatively peaceful Cichlids and usually only become territorial or aggressive when breeding, but it always depends on the individual; they will defend themselves in regards to more aggressive cichlids bullying them. They can be successful within a community environment, but are more commonly kept in species or biotope-specific aquariums. Tank mates should be chosen carefully and regardless of a community, species-specific, or cichlid setup, their tank mates should always be comparable in size (Plecos, Geophagus and Parrot Cichlids could be good choices).

Green Severums are omnivores and eat insects, small crustaceans and vegetable matter in natural habitat. They have a tendency to prefer a lot of vegetable matter and will accept peas, lettuce, chopped zucchini, and chopped cucumber; they should also be supplemented with a variety of meaty and vitamin enriched foods such as live, frozen or freeze-dried ghost shrimp, bloodworms, mealworms, earthworms, crickets, and nutritional cichlid and algae (Spirulina) based pellets. Feed once or twice daily.

Breeding Green Severums is not very difficult, but they can often take quite a while to pair up. The parents will clean off a flat rock surface or section of driftwood and the female will lay between 200-800 eggs; the male will fertilize them and then the female will tend to the eggs while the male patrols the perimeter. The eggs will hatch in 3-5 days and the fry will be relocated to a pre-dug pit in the substrate. The fry will be free-swimming within a week and then able to accept crushed flake food and baby brine shrimp. It has been reported that Green Severums can take an extremely long time to get it right when breeding and it's common for the parents to eat the fry at various stages for the first dozen or so attempts. They will eventually sort things out and get it right, but the fry could also be removed and raised if continuous failed attempts are excessive.